CRAFTSMEN OF FOOD IN THE MID-SEVENTEENTH-CENTURY ISTANBUL

The Branches and Numbers of Crafts Relevant to Food in Istanbul and Four Administrative Districts -the walled city section, outside the walled city section of Istanbul and Bilad-ı Selase (the parts of Eyüp, Galata, and Üsküdar lying outside of the city)- and settlements up the Bosphorus toward the Black Sea Strait, Based on the Statements of Evliya Çelebi.

 

Branches of Crafts

The Number of Shops/ Personnel

Explanation

(Biryancı)

200/500

-

Meşrubat-ı Deva (Remedy drink) (Syrup)

500/600

-

Bağban

43,950 vineyards and gardens

The precise number of the people working there was not stated. Nevertheless, as there was more than one person working in some of these gardens, the total number of workers was probably around 50,000.

Tree Grafters

-/500

-

Greengrocer

500/500

They sold vegetables such as parsley, celery, cucumber, eggplant, radish, turnip, cabbage, carrot, watercress, leek, etc.

Gülab (Rose water)

41/60

-

Dehhan-ı Edviye (Scented oil producer)

80/115

They prepared and sold oils of almond, cypress, walnut, hazelnut, pistachio and similar nuts.

Habbazan (Bread maker)

999/10.000

They had a number of assistants who were not included in this number.

Janissary Bakers

1/300

All the workers were conscript boys. They only served Janissary Guilds. They prepared black bread that was delicious.

Salter

-

Baker assistants

Çörekçi (Turkish cupcake sellers)

200/2.000

-

Börekçi (Timbale makers)

200/4.000

-

Gevrekçi (Crisp makers)

55/200

-

Kâhîci

100/500

-

Gurabiyeci (Cookie maker)

50/100

-

Simitçi (Turkish bagel) maker)

70/300

-

Kadayıfçı (Shredded dough with syrup maker)

50/100

-

Şehriyeci (Vermicelli seller)

10/100

-

Lokmacı (Yeast fritter seller)

20/50

-

Gözlemeci (Turkish savory pancake seller)

60/105

-

Yeniçeri Sakaları (Janissary water carriers)

-/700

There were 162 Janissary barracks.

Şehir [at] Sakaları (Water carriers with horses)

-/1.400

These were the civil water carriers of the city. Their administrator was the chief water carrier (hünkâr sakabaşısı). Their organization was based in Ayasofya. They would take water from 9,999 fountains in Istanbul and distribute it.

Arka Sakaları (Water carriers, on their backs)

-/8.000

These people carrying water on their backs would cry out: “Sakka, sebil, sebil içene rahmet, sebil!” (Water, remedy for the one drinking it), “Can u gönülde sıhhan ve afiyen!” (For the health and well-being of you and your soul), and “Ma, Hasan ile Hüseyin aşkına su!” (Water, for the the love of Hasan and Hüseyin). From time to time they would also read Quranic verses related to water.

At Değirmeni (Horse Mill)

985/9.800

-

Su Değirmeni (Water Mill)

4/-

They were at the end of Kırkçeşme, in Necati Street.

Flour Producers

400/600

They were craftsmen in Unkapanı

Flour Sifters

-/3.000

They worked in mills and bakeries. Most of them were Egyptian peasants.

Wheat Stirrers

-/3.000

They worked in mills and bakeries. Most of them were Egyptian peasants.

Sifters

200/300

They helped the bakers.

Sievers

209/500

-

Farina makers

300/700

-

Güllaççılar (Rice wafer makers)

40/80

-

Peksimetçiler (Hard Biscuit Makers)

105/1.000

The emin (supervisor) of Peksimet was of high importance in military campaigns. The institutions were in Galata, Kuruçeşme, and Yeniköy.

Egyptian Merchants

6.000/11.000

They imported foodstuffs and other products, such as henna, rash mat, etc., from Egypt.

Rice producers

40/300

-

Lentil producers

70/200

-

Sugar Producers

70/100

-

Eşribe-i Mümessek (Mixed Beverage Makers)

55/100

They prepared and sold beverages such as reybas, barberry, rose-lemon, hummas, tamarind, and mulberry wine.

Coffee Makers

200/300

-

Grand Butchers

999/1.700

All of them were janissaries.

Slaughterers

200/1.000

-

Cattle butchers

100/200

-

Jewish Butchers

100/200

-

Dairy Farmers

2.000/-

Each had seventy to eighty flocks of sheep and forty to fifty farming boys.

Sheep Herdsman

700/-

They were under the control of sheep supervisors. They kept their sheep in the winter and when necessarybrought them to the city to sell.

Livestock pen tenders

2.000/4.000

Livestock pens were made of brushwood. There was no shortage of milk, butter, and cheese. When the lamb was bought at the first of summer, there was a festival.

Cattle Herdsman

1.000/5.000

They were in the Terkoz, Karataşlar and Istıranca Mountains. On tax collection day in December, they would bring hundreds of cattle to Istanbul.

Shepherd

-/9.004

 

Südciyan-ı Sevr (Cattle Milk Collectors)

200/100

They had nice, fat, piebaldcows.

Cheese makers

400/500

-

Clotted Cream makers

40/100

-

Butter makers

-/80

They were itinerant peddlers without shops.

Head of the Yoghurt Producers

1/100

Located below the Blue Mosque, close to Çatladıkapı Road.

Yoghurt Makers

500/1.600

One hundred of them were in Eyüp. There were a number of yoghurt shops, but those in Sütlüce, Kasımpaşa, Ortaköy, Kanlıca, and Üsküdar were particularly famous.

Teleme (soft, unsalted cheese) Producers

-/300

They were mostly Albanians.

Meat Square Butchers

20/80

-

Yedikule Slaughterhouse

70/200

This was where sheep were slaughtered, cleaned and prepared for cooking.

Bahçekapı Slaughterhouse

1/200

It belonged to the sultan.

Janissary Dairy Farmers

-/1.000

On Istıranca Mountain janissaries looked after water buffalo and sheep.

Sheep Merchants

-/2.000

They were important merchants.

Cattle Pastrami Merchants

-/600

They were mostly non-Muslims from Moldavia and Wallachia. In December they would bring cattle for pastrami preparation.

Pastrami Merchants

100/400

They would sell Kili pastrami in a number of places, excluding Odunkapısı but especially in Galata and Tophane.

Sheep Liver Sellers

-/300

They would be selected by the chief butcher, for whom they were apprentices. All were Albanians from Ohri, Görice and Horpuşta.

Albanian Offal Sellers

-/400

They made meatballs and kebabs from liver, spleen, kidney, liver, heart, abomasum, etc. They were considered unclean.

Tripe Sellers (Ta‘am-ı Mahmûrân)

300/800

All tripe sellers in Istanbul were Greek.

Chief Vinegar Producers

-

They were on Azebler Street in Unkapanı, working for the sultan. They used Bartın (a Black Sea province) and English barrels, in which five to ten men could fit. They also used barrels made from the juniper of Mora, German barrels, and jars from Enez, Maghrib, and Athens. Among the various vinegar types were rose, amber, palm, fir, apple, and muscatel.

Vinegar Makers

90/150

Vinegars of Kasımpaşa, Tophane and Üsküdar were famous. They were helpers for the chief cook.

Pickle Makers

70/160

They were helpers for the chief cook They made pickles mostly of mint, parsley, celery, rose, caper, cucumber, eggplant, cabbage, carrot, radish, and leek.

Dried Garlic Sellers

80/102

Their shops were located in Galata and Tophane, but not in Odunkapısı. They assisted the chief cooks and the tripe cooks.

Onion Sellers

70/300

-

Cooks

555/2.000

-

Vizier and Cook Tasters (Çaşnigir)

-/3.000

In every restaurant near the mansions of the viziers, a taster was required to taste a few bites of meals presented to customers.

Saffron and Rice Dessert Makers (Zerdeci)

15/30

-

Kebab and Meatball Sellers

400/1.500

-

Roasted Lamb Sellers (Biryancı)

155/200

-

Stew Sellers (Yahnici)

100/255

-

Stuffed Vegetable Sellers (Dolmacı)

50/155

They made stuffed squash, grape leaves, sheep intestines, onion, eggplant, and cabbage.

Mustard Sellers

-/300

They were Albanians who did not sell from shops.

Blancmange Makers (Paludeci)

10/55

They made desserts and sweets like blancmange and Turkish delight.

Milky Dish (Soup) Sellers

15/30

They produced and sold milky dishes.

Salad Sellers

200/300

All were Greeks from Gölikesre, Horpuşta, and Liçista.

Spinach and Vegetable Sellers

400/500

Their shops were in the state-owned vegetable market at the edge of Yemiş dock. Its administrator was terekecibaşı (chief of hereditary records) working under the authority of bostancıbaşı (head of the imperial gardens and yards).

Sujuk Sellers

10/30

-

Dried Fruit Compote Makers (Hoşafçı)

500/700

They made compotes of apricot, wild apricot, palm, Mardin palm (icas), Azerbaijan pear, Izmir grape, Tekirdağ cherry, Kocaeli apple, Istanbul peach, Çubuklu cranberry, etc.

Sorbet Makers (Şerbetçi)

300/500

They made sorbets from reybas, barberry, rose-lemon, hummas, lily, hyssop, tamarind, cherry, and various grape types. Badyan was also produced by them.

Piyade cüllap sellers

-/300

They did not have any shops.

Isıcak Paludeci (A type of blancmange seller)

7/300

Their shops were at Tahtakale. They made hot blancmange in the winter.

Isıcak Paludeciyan-ı Kavvafan (A type of blancmange seller)

-/800

They did not have any shops.

Issı and Baharlı Şerbetçi (Hot and Spiced Sorbet Sellers)

-/300

They did not have any shops.

Salep sellers

-/200

They did not have any shops.

Bademli Köfterci Sellers of Köfter (A sweet made of starched grape juice with almond)

40/200

The köfter of Istanbul was famous, along with köfters of Ayıntab, Eğriboz and Manisa .

Milk Sellers of the Madrasa

-/300

They did not have any shops.

Mahlep Sellers

-

They would produce a type of sorbet by boiling with sugar and honey a kind of plant grown in the meadows.

Ağdacı (Lemon and Sugar Syrup Sellers)

100/700

-

Ağda tüccarı (Lemon and Sugar Syrup Merchant)

-/313

-

Grape Mill Workers

15/300

Their place of production was at Yemiş dock, at Ahî Çelebi Camii Street.

Head of the Snow Providers

1/300+300 (Karcı kayıkçıları)

-

Halva Producers of the Palace School

1/3

A chief halva producer was assisted by two novice janissary boys.

Halva Producers of the Birun

170/400

They were famous for halva types, such as Turkish fairy floss (pişmaniye), sabuni, tahine, ebyaz, mahice, almond, samsa, cotton, gazilerö and arşın.

They were famous for halva types, such as Turkish fairy floss (pişmaniye), sabuni, tahine, ebyaz, mahice, almond, samsa, cotton, gazilerö and arşın.

-/500

They would sell halva of tahine, reşidiye, âsıdiye, susamiye, cevziye and fısdıkıye.

Sugar Candy Sellers

70/200

-

Sweet Sellers of Galata

-

They would sell candies of almond, pistachio, peanut, ginger, roasted chickpea, raziyane, kişniş, narenç kabuğu, ud-ı mülebbes, cilantro, kahve dane mülebbesi, badem mülebbesi, pistachio mülebbesi and sanavber pistachio mülebbesi, etc. Non-Muslim Greeks from Chios and Europe, they were called “taife-i ispeçeran.”.

Fish Emin (Supervisor)

1/300

He was the sultan’s fish supervisor, located outside Unkapanı, at older Balıkpazarı. He conducted his work with a tax-farming system.

Fish garths (Dalyancı)

300/700

The main fish garth where sword fish were caught was at Beykoz Port.

Iğrıbçı (Fishers using a kind of net)

-/3000

-

Karityacı

-/10+

They were a group of ten fishermen who were exempt from taxes dating from the conquest of Istanbul. They caught fish with framed nets attached to poles extendıng from waterfront residences on both coasts of the Golden Horn, extending from Sarayburnu to Eyüp.

Ağcı (Fishers using nets)

-/1.000

They would catch fish on the rocks.

Saçmacı (Fishers using a special kind of net)

-/300

They would walk along the sea coast and catch fish swimming close to the surface with special nets.

Düzenci

-/1.000

They would go along the harbors with 600 çırnık (a kind of boat, able to get through even narrow bays) and would catch goby fish, pickerel and mackerel fish.

Harpooners (Zıpkıncı)

-

They would catch sea bass, bonito, tunny, and Spanish mackerel in the fish passages.

Fisherman Using Pots

-/300

This group would catch rockfish with earthenware pots, which they put in the water with ropes at harbors and into the reeds at Kağıthane.

Fisherman Using Baskets

-/200

They would catch fish, such as crab, shrimp, goat (shrimp), sülüne (denizçakısı), octopus, clams, crab, lobster and eels on rocks in still waters with baskets in which they put bread.

Fish Sellers

2.000/3.000

Most of them were Rum from Niğde, Kayseri and Manya.

Oyster Sellers

300/800

This group would buy shellfish, such as clams, sea urchins, mussels, pheasant, scallops with iron harrows, thrown from boats.

Cooks of Balıkpazarı

500/900

All of them were Greek.

Ağcılar (Netters)

70/300

-

Eminler (Supervisors) of the Sultan

-

-

The Emin of Unkapanı

-

They were responsible for the provision and distribution of flour. Clerks, weighing officials, chamberlains, guards, and carriers would assist them.

The Emin of Tahmis (at Tahtakale)

-/300

All the coffee to be consumed within the borders of the Istanbul administration would be ground. They had one hundred mortars and three ovens.

The Emin of Tahmis (near Yeni Cami)

-

They had fifty mortars and an oven.

The Emin of Yağkapanı

1/300 soldiers + 1 agha

It was located in Galata.

Oil Merchant

-/1.000

-

Zeyt Yağcıları

600/1.285

-

The Emin of Fish

-

Same as above.

The Emin of Salt

-

They were counted among the bread producers. Their office was at the beginning of the Çiniciler area between Zindankapısı and Balıkpazarı Gate.

The Emin of Peksimet

-

They were counted among the bread producers.

The Emin of Hamr (Vine)

-

“Mezmûm, medhûr ve makdûh kavmdir.”

The Emin of Dâne-i Gendüm (Wheat)

1/300

He was the manager of the leaded cellar, built by Omar b. Abdulaziz in Galata. They would bring large-grained wheat from the Balkans and it would be distributed as a food allowance for the court.

The Emin of the Warehouse

1/1.000

It was outside Bahçekapı. The emin was in charge of the wheat warehouses of Beyazid II, located at the Tekirdağ Port, and of Suleyman the Magnificent, located next to the castle walls outside Cibalikapısı, but not at Unkapanı.

The Emin of Pastrami

-

Same as Above.

The Emin of the Slaughterhouse

-

Same as Above.

The Emin of the Vegetable Market

-

Same as Above.

The Emin of Sheep

-

Same as Above.

The Emin of the Imperial Kitchen

1/200

He worked at one of the assigned posts in the Imperial Kitchen.

The Emin of Chicken

1/200

They provided chicken for the Imperial Kitchen from seventy administrative districts.

Merchant Grocers

1.590/4.980

They sold food and beverages.

Gûnâgûn (Various) Oil Producers

185/300

They had a different craft branch with their own shops, independent from the emin of Yağkapanı, mentioned above.

Şırlugan (Sesame Oil) Producers

235/550

-

Honey Merchant

300 underground storerooms/1,000

-

Bezirciler (Linseed Oil Producer)

355/931

They produced linseed oil from hemp seeds. They were mostly from Niğde and Kayseri.

Zeyyat Taifesi (Olive Oil Producers)

80/200

This group, selling bottled olive oils in their shops, worked under the charge of the bakkalbaşı (head of the grocers), rather than the emin of Yağkapanı.

Pastrami Producers

500/800

This group, all of whom were Muslim and mostly from Manavgat, sold pastrami brought from Kili and İsmail. They were an craft branch independent of the cattle merchants mentioned above.

Leblebici (Roasted Chickpea Producers)

100/400

They assisted the bakkalbaşı.

Bazarbaşı Yemişçisi (Fruit Sellers in the Market)

1.007/3.000

They sold fresh fruit.

Gardeners

1.000 bahçe/2.000 nefer

This number includes only the gardens within the walled city.

Manavcı (Fruit Sellers) (Watermelon Seller)

300/2.000

They sold melon and watermelon. They could work only six months of the year.

Şükufeci (Florists)

300 bağ/800

-

Meyve Çiçekçisi (Fruit Sellers)

80/300

They sold fruits and pimento in the winter and summer.

Mısır Attarı (Herbalists, Selling Spices)

-

It was located outside Zindankapısı.

Ud and Amberciler (Oud and Scent Sellers)

45/100

-

Fincancı (Cup Seller)

6/15

-

Çömlekçi (Pot sellers)

300/500

They sold earthenware pots.

Çömlekçi Kârhanesi (Pot Producers)

300/400

They produced earthenware pots

Çerçiden Hacetçiler (Herbalists without shops)

-/300

They soldwhat herbal shops sold, such as spices.

Kahveci Attarlar (Coffee Grinding Herbalists)

300/500

-

Yahudi Attarlar (Jewish Herbalists)

200/400

Their shops were at Tahtakale and Mahmutpaşa. They sold various herbalist shop items, dye in particular.

Mezmum Bozacı (Boza Producers)

300/1.005

They were comprised of mostly Tatars and Gypsies, groups disapproved of by society.

Tatlı Bozacı (Sweet Boza Producers)

40/105

Boza made from the millet of Tekirdağ was more popular.

Subya (Cuttlefish producers)

2/10

They came from Egypt. One of their shops was across the Hagia Sophia Hamam and the other was in Karaman-ı Kebir.

Bal Sucu (Honey juice sellers)

50/100

They sold juice made from honey.

Arakçılar (Rakı Sellers)

100/300

They sold rakı. The rakı of Gülefsen and the Ukrainian beverage horilka were tangier than other rakıs.

Müsellesçi

10/50

Müselles, meaning “done three times,” was a kind of grape molasses. It took its name from the sticks with three notches used in the boiling process of the unfermented grape juice. It was boiled until the first two notches became clearly visible and the third notch began to be seen, and thus was suitable for Muslims to drink as a halal beverage without alcohol.

Meyhaneciler (Taverns)

1.060/6.000

-

Koltuk Meyhanesi

300/800

-

Piyade Meyhaneciler

-/800

They did not have any shops.

Şarab-ı Nâb Meyhanesi (Taverns selling pure wine)

1/15

-

Vişnab Şarabı Meyhanesi (Taverns selling cherry wine)

60/500

-

Nar Şarabı Hamrhanesi (Taverns selling pomegranate wine)

6/25

-

Hurma Şarabı Şaraphanesi (Wine house selling date wine)

1/6

-

Dut Şarabı Şaraphanesi (Wine house selling mulberry wine)

2/12

-

Karpuz Şarabı Piyalehanesi (Wine house selling watermelon wine)

2/15

They did not have any shops.

Köknar Şarabı Sakıhanesi (Wine house selling fir wine)

1/21

They did not have any shops.

Avşıla Şarabı Ayakhanesi (Wine house selling Avşıla wine)

1/15

They did not have any shops.

İpsime Şarabı Camhanesi (A kind of wine house selling İpsime wine)

15/55

They did not have any shops.

Islama Şarabı Çakırhanesi (A kind of wine house selling Islama wine)

50/300

They did not have any shops.

Mavuza Şarabı Fıskhanesi (A kind of wine house selling Mavuza wine)

100/500

They did not have any shops.

Bedevine Şarabı Kıltıhanesi (A kind of wine house selling Bedevine wine)

30/100

They did not have any shops.

Kan-ı Fasıkan: Misket Şarabı (A kind of wine house selling muscatel wine)

70/400

They did not have any shops.

Kan-ı Zürefa: Fışfış Şarabı (A kind of wine house selling fışfış wine)

60/155

They did not have any shops.

Mekan-ı Bekriyan: Nardenk Şarabı (A kind of wine house selling sour fruit wine)

80/100

They did not have any shops.

Müdminhane-i Bozan Şarabı (A kind of wine house selling Bozan wine)

50/100

They did not have any shops.

Sohbethane-i Hümül Şarabı (A kind of wine house selling Hümül wine)

-

They did not have any shops.

İşarethane-i Rakı Şarabı (A kind of wine house Selling raki wine)

300/1.000

They did not have any shops.

Tarabhane-i Gülefser Arakı (A kind of tavern selling Gülefser raki)

3/10

They did not have any shops.

Nuşhane-i Horilka Arakı (A kind of tavern selling Horilka raki)

1/15

They did not have any shops.

Keyifhane-i Firna Arakı (A kind of tavern selling Firna raki)

1/3

They did not have any shops.

Aramhane-i Sudina Arakı (A kind of tavern selling Sudina raki)

2/5

They did not have any shops.

Eğlencehane-i Poloniye Arakı (A kind of tavern selling Polish raki)

3/13

They did not have any shops.

Nedimhane-i Hardaliye Arakı (A kind of tavern selling Hardaliye raki)

5/13

They did not have any shops.

Tüvanhane-i İmamiye Arakı (A kind of tavern selling İmamiye raki)

80/100

They did not have any shops.

Şirhane-i Balısıca Arakı (A kind of tavern selling Balısıca raki)

6/18

They did not have any shops.

Mezehane-i Zater-i Halil Arakı (A kind of tavern selling Zater-i Halil raki)

1/3

They did not have any shops.

Peymanehane-i Ohlamur Arakı (A kind of tavern selling Ohlamur raki)

2/5

They did not have any shops.

Bi-Kaydhane-i Anison Arakı (A kind of tavern selling anise raki)

10/30

They did not have any shops.

Ankahane-i Darçın Arakı (A kind of tavern selling cinnamon raki)

1/6

They did not have any shops.

Nekbethane-i Saman Arakı (A kind of tavern selling raki tasting like straw)

5/15

They did not have any shops.

Ayşhane-i Mün’im Karanfil Arakı (A kind of tavern selling clove raki)

1/9

They did not have any shops.

Nuklhane-i Şüşnar Arakı (A kind of tavern selling Şuşnar raki)

1/10

They did not have any shops.

Meyhorhane-i Elma Suyu (Shops selling apple juice)

50/400

They did not have any shops.

Tembelhane-i Bal Suyu (Shops selling Honey Juice)

22/100

They did not have any shops.

Müskirhane-i Mübtecel Suyu (A kind of tavern selling Ihlamur raki)

7/15

They did not have any shops.

Fesadhane-i Arpa Suyu (Shops selling barley water)

3/10

-

Devahane-i Darçın Suyu (Shops selling cinnamon juice)

1/5

-

Hekimhane-i Kibrit Suyu (Medicinal shop selling sulfur water)

1/1

-

Badehane-i Yahudiyan (Jewish taverns)

100/500

-

Yahudi Meyhaneciler (Taverns owned by Jews)

100/600

-

 


This article was translated from Turkish version of History of Istanbul with some editions to be published in a digitalized form in 2019.

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